Problems with water pumps can be in any form. If the water pump in your house is damaged, take a look at our first call restoration crew to get the best and perfect handling. We will be happy to help. Previously, the following is common damage that occurs in electric water pumps and how to overcome them.
1. Total Dead Water Pump
This shows that there is no electricity entering the water pump.
How to fix it:
– First, check using the test pen or multitester on the power source can be from the wall socket or switch. If the voltage is in, check the Water Level Switch on the water reservoir (if using a Water Level Sensor). Next check the Automatic Pressure Switch for water pumps that do not use water reservoirs, aka faucets, when the pump is opened, the faucet on the pump cap dies (automatic water pump). If damage to the water switch immediately replaces a new one.
– If the water switch is good and the voltage reaches the water pump terminal, but the pump motor is not running and there is no sound at all the possibility of windings/winding from the water pump is broken or the thermal switch that is in the water pump’s coil is broken. Can also be rolled / wound already broken and broken. For checking, don’t just use a test pen because only the phases are detected while the neutral isn’t, the test pen sometimes lights up because of the induced voltage to make sure it checks with a multitester so that it detects broken or not. If the coil is broken it can be dispelled / re-rolled using copper wire of the same size so that it will be as it was in the original situation.
2. The water pump starts with an undue noise and then turns off.
The water pump is on but the sound is abnormal, such as buzzing and the rotor axle is not spinning or on, but the rotor axle turns weak and then turns off. If left for a long time the pump will start again with the condition as above and then die again. That happened because the water pump had problems with its components.
How to fix it:
– Check the capacitor with a multitester, possibly weak or dead. If the physical damage of the capacitor can explode or crack.
– Check Bearing may be stuck, or it could be a blog pumping in sand or dirt. For certain pumps, it can also be jammed due to rust and glue As on the Stator because it may not be turned on for several days. This has caused the spill of the hot water pump and the Thermal Switch safety of the spull is disconnected and will be connected again if the heat goes down. Worse if the coil had not used the Thermal Switch the spull effect will burn. How to check by opening 3 or 4 bolts in the impeller section (depending on the pump brand).
3. The water pump is alive but the water won’t come out.
Damage to problems like this if from the previous normal, the possibility of the Foot Valve at the bottom of the suction pipe can leak because the rubber foot valve is worn or blocked by sand.
How to fix it:
– Open the fishing rod lid on the water pump blog, see if the water is empty. If it is empty, surely the leaking valve foot, fill with water to the full and turn on the water pump, wait a while then the water will run again. If after the water can rise but then if you turn it off for a while like that again it means you have to replace the foot valve. However, if it remains smooth, it means that the Footklep is only blocked by sand and when it is turned on the sand will also be lifted upward.